Russia's Obsession with Zodiac Signs

I was born under a lucky star, or more accurately, constellation. Russians consider Pisces to be the most gentle, kind, good-natured, and all around most quality people. So whenever someone finds out that I am a Pisces (which, surprisingly, happens a lot), they automatically like me. Maybe I should walk around introducing myself as, "Hi, I'm Sasha, and I'm a Pisces." That way I would make a lot of friends...

It seems that the topic of horoscopes has come up in conversation with almost everyone I have I met. And every conversation I have had, has always been a pleasant and informative one because Pisces are rarely criticized - maybe only that they can sometimes be too sensitive. But that isn't nearly as bad of a quality as some of the other signs are thought to embody. 

For example, Taurus, you're in trouble because you're considered to be overall bizarre (and not typically in a good way). Moody, strongly rooted in their personal values, difficult to be friends with, close-minded, hot-tempered, dark and mysterious...these are some of the strange aspects Taurus's are thought to have. 

Leo's are authoritative, controlling, strong willed, haughty, and overbearing. They wear the pants in the relationship. 

But Pisces - looks like there's a general consensus among all Russians - that Pisces are wonderful people. And hey, I'll take it! 

An instance in which I truly saw the effect of my Pisces-ness is when I went over to my grandmother's friend's house for a Russian language class. Eleonora and her son greeted me and as per the Russian custom, we sat down for some tea before beginning the lesson. We started talking, getting to know each other, and of course there was some tension in the air, seeing as we hadn't met each other before. I'm not sure exactly what the question was, but I answered in a way that revealed the recent passing of my birthday. And that's when the veil of discomfort was lifted forever: "Ah! So you're a Pisces then! What a wonderful sign," said Eleonora. From then on, she has been very partial towards me and calls my grandmother to check up on me very often. 

I'm not sure where I stand in my beliefs about horoscopes - whether they are true or not. I think that every horoscope description hits on so many different topics in different manners, that anyone can read any horoscope (be it theirs or not) and can find something that is relatable. 

I also think that in cultures where horoscopes are highly regarded and followed, those preset judgments influence the development and behavior of individuals in such a way that morphs them into the embodiment of the characteristics of their horoscope. Makes sense, if you think about it, that if a child is born as a Pisces and his "Piscean" qualities are emphasized, those are the characteristics that will become more prominent. Having constantly being told that "you're crying because you're a Pisces and you're naturally sensitive", the child will turn into that sensitive person that was always remarked about at an early age. 

However, I don't like to believe that those horoscopes that have many negative attributes at their core are true. To take Taurus's for example, I have many friends who were born within the time frame of April 20th - May 20th, who are absolutely remarkable and quality people. I, personally, don't see those overbearing qualities in them. But then again, that may be the Pisces in me talking... ;)

Overall, zodiac signs are very fun and interesting, however if I could give any advice, I would suggest not to focus too much on them. Don't allow some predetermined beliefs, which may or may not be true in real life, influence the way you treat a person or what you think about them. First and foremost, a person is a human being and then everything else follows. Use horoscopes for entertainment, interesting information, and fun. Who knows, maybe the next Taurus you meet and disregard based on his/her horoscope could have been your next best friend. Don't miss that chance by ignorantly judging before getting to know them. 

Easter F(e)ast

Hello, Friends! Happy Easter!

Today is a wonderful day because all around the world, in all the religions that celebrate Easter, this holiday falls on the same day! I feel so much better knowing that while I am here in Russia, devouring all the delicious Easter food, millions of others around the world are doing the same!!!! Woot! 

Easter Brunch with Babushka Lilya and Galya

Having prepared (and already eaten) so many scrumptious dishes, I got to thinking about good food and what my favorite cuisine is. Immediately, most likely prompted by my recent trip, French cuisine came to mind. So here's a little overview of why I enjoy French food and the culture that surrounds the cuisine. 

Fist off, hands down, France makes the best bread in the entire world. Nothing compares. Baguettes, croissants, bigger loaves, smaller loaves, loaves with olives, Madeline's, pastries, macaroons...everything is quality and delicious.

Secondly, the French culture of specialty shops like boulangeries, patisseries, fromageries, boucheries, and poissoneries is excellent because the quality of the products sold there is exponentially higher than supermarket products, and they're not much more expensive either. Especially in boucheries and patisseries (bread and pastry shops), the products are made by hand in the store. Every morning everything is fresh, and the ingredients are local because the stores are family-run and they do not need enormous quantities since it's just one shop, so the quality is exceptional. 

In general, the way that the French deal with food is definitely a model that I think the rest of the world should learn from. Quality is the most important aspect, meaning that quantity is not focused on because it doesn't need to be. When a person eats great, quality food (in a savory non-overstuffing kind of way), he doesn't need a lot of it because it is very filling in itself. 

Also, the portions are appropriately sized - an important influence of weight gain/loss. 

The 'family' of food that is eaten is also correct. A typical breakfast consists of baguette with jam and some fruit: carbs and glucose to start the day. Lunch lasts about an hour, during which in addition to food like salads or sandwiches (all the food groups plus something savory), there is time for relaxation. And dinner is a small serving of every food group - cheese, meat, vegetables, and bread. 

As for wine, the French once again focus on quality so even the cheap wines are exquisite. One bottle shared among a group of five or so friends over a period of a few hours is all that is needed for a typical French evening. Generally, the French aren't known to drink to get drunk - a lifestyle that is certainly a healthy one.

Overall, the French are master chefs and foodies. That is definitely something that I am going to miss when I am in parts of the world that deal with food differently. Even with the copious amounts of walking that I did every day, the way in which I ate the food that I ate agreed with me very well. 

So I am certainly a big fan of French food...

But for now, since I am in Russia and not in France on Easter [I wonder what the French eat?], I am going to fully enjoy the traditional dishes of kulich, pas'ha, and colored eggs. 

Definitely baked and decorated this myself...no help from the store bakers at all...I'm just this talented

Fun Fact of the Easter Day: 
The XB on the kulich above stands for "Христос Воскрес" - the Russian Easter salutation meaning "Christ has risen" or the non-literal translation: "Bless me, [Father]". And the response is "Воистину воскресе" meaning "Indeed, He has risen" or "God blesses you".
This XB acronym is seen everywhere on Easter - on kulich, pas'ha, napkins, wrapping, bags...everything. 

Hope you liked the post and I didn't make you too hungry :)
Happy Easter! Христос Воскрес!

Îles du Frioul

Cati, my house mother of sorts, recommended I visit her absolute favorite place on Earth - the islands of Frioul. Besides African dance and history (she also works as a tour guide), boating is her life love and whenever she gets the chance, she takes out her petit bateau to the Îles du Frioul for the day. So on my last day in Marseille, the weather was perfectly toasty and I took off to Frioul - just off the coast of Marseille. 

 Twenty minutes later, I was strolling down the only downtown-esque street on the main island, making my way past seafood restaurants, cafés, and gift shops to the Frioul hills. Turns out that these islands are perfect to hike and then take a dip in the Mediterranean sea - but preferably in the summer when the water isn't freezing. 



The views, the flora, the water, the sunshine...were incredible!

  It was a whopping 25 degrees Celsius and sunny as can be that I got my first sunburn of the year! (Many more to come, I'm sure...)
But it was certainly worth it - to finally not be landlocked as in Colorado and in Moscow. 
As for the heat, it was bearable because the breeze from the sea mellowed it out. In fact, it was surprisingly windy on the peaks of the hills.

And I touched the Mediterranean! Though the water wasn't warm enough to swim in, it was very refreshing and yes I tasted it - deliciously salty, just like the Mediterranean should be. The water was clear and crisp, beaconing me to swim in it, but it was much too cold. Guess I'll have to come back in the summer!! ;)

 Very unique flora on the island was unlike anything I have seen. Very lush but dry at the same time, and these flowers reminded me of cacti. With the background of the marine blue sea, I thought this was a wonderful picture to summarize the Îles of Frioul. 

 For lunch, I had my first seafood in France at one of the cute seaside restaurants on the island. The bouillabaisse is the classic Marseillaise dish, composed of every single kind of sea creature in town, but it is also very expensive - something to order for an entire family dinner. So instead, I had the fish soup served with shredded cheese, toast, and some sort of mayo spread. Absolutely mouthwatering! 

I spent the entire day at Frioul, and as I was walking back to the house, I saw this (on the left) posted up on the wall of a building. 'Souriez' means 'smile'. Just thought it was a cute and funny picture. 

I also stopped in a boulangerie and bought the most delicious loaf of olive bread I have ever tasted. And I'm not a big fan of olives, but when there are whole, real, savory olives poking out the crispy crust and mixed in with the warm, soft center, anyone will become a fan of olives right then and there. 

As a whole, Marseille is a wonderful place - the people, the food, the culture, the sea are all splendid and warm. I'm sad that my trip has come to a close, but it couldn't have ended on a better note. 


Á bientôt, la France! Until next time! 

Exploring Marseille!

A major port city on the Mediterranean sea, Marseille is unlike Lyon and Paris is almost every way. Even the French that is spoken there is highly accented and at times difficult to understand. 

Street performers sitting one atop the other...how?!

Since it is so open to the nearby countries via sea, lots of foreign influence is seen in every aspect of Marseillaise life. According to Olivier, the BnB owner Cati's boyfriend, there are as many Italians in Marseille as there are French. He says that the people who live there are some of the most patriotic people in the world, and they consider themselves first and foremost Marseillaise, then Provincial, and only then French - that's how dedicated they are to their home town. It is no surprise, then, that in all of France, it is well-known that the Olympique de Marseille soccer team's fans are the craziest, most fanatical, and follow the sport very closely. (Note to self: next visit, go to an Olympique de Marseille game.)

I spent the entire day walking around and exploring Marseille. The main area of this city is Vieux Port (translation: Old Port) where many ships are docked as well as seafood restaurants and stores are located. Also, every morning right along the docks, fisherman bring their fresh fresh catch from earlier that day and sell it. Here, this lady was selling eel! Somewhat smelly, but quite a sight!

Making my way through Vieux Port, I came across Cathédrale la Major, an enormous Catholic cathedral that towered over the nearby buildings. Inside, it was lavishly decorated with the many flags of the world, intricate icons, and glistening gold embellishments.

The district near the Cathedral is called the Panier - a collection of quaint streets filled with family-owned boutique shops, Italian-esque homes with laundry hanging out to dry, and miniature sidewalks that you have to try to squeeze onto if a car happens to drive by. 

Provence, the southern region of France, is known for a plethora of things, among which are lavender and sunflower fields, soap, and olive products. Particularly in Marseille, soap is the historically common good produced, and it is sold in nearly every single shop. All natural, from 'my grandmother's grandmother's recipe', the scent of fresh soap often finds its way into a traveller's nose as he makes his way through the winding streets. Great way to cancel out the fishy smell!

View of Vieux Port. Can you see the Notre Dame on top of the hill?

What I really enjoyed about Marseille is that though it is a touristy town, as major cities are, it is in its own repertoire. By that I mean that all necessary information for a tourist can be easily found, the people are abundantly helpful, and the classic Marseillaise destinations are readily accessible; but at the same time, the city and the people themselves don't go out of their way and change their routine lifestyles for the benefit of the tourists. It is all very natural and normal, and the tourists are just there to quite literally observe what Marseillaise life is like. 

The courtyards of Pitchounette and Olives!

To add to the 'live like a local' vibe, Cati invited me to accompany her to the African Dance class she attends every Tuesday night! We took her Smart Car just outside of central Marseille to an arts center where a group of people were gathered for the lesson. The two teachers, both men originally from countries in Eastern Africa, played the drums and led step-by-step moves. Though the whole group had been practicing the particular routine for a while, I somewhat managed to get the hang of it because the moves were very rhythmic and repetitive. We danced barefooted and it was extremely fun and unlike anything I've ever tried! 

Turns out that in France, African Dance is a popular dance style; makes sense that now there is a lot of African influence considering that historically, France had many African colonies.

The living room, where all the guests of Pitchounette and Olives have
breakfast and gather together from time to time to talk (in French!),
exchange stories, and get to know one another.

After the two-hour class, we returned back to Pitchounette and Olive's. On the ride back, I asked Cati about the origin of the name, and she told me that as a young girl, people used to call her 'Pitchounette' - meaning 'little girl' in a regional dialect of French.  So when deciding on the name of the BnB, she and Olivier named it after themselves: Pitchounette for Cati and since the Provincial area is known for its olives, Olive for Olivier.


Successful day exploring the town of Marseille, taking in some culture, and unexpectedly learning some African Dance moves! I can say with complete certainty that it was the best decision to stay at Pitchounette et Olive's for these few days in Marseille because I have gotten so much more than just a good place to sleep - I've gotten invaluable advise, memorable experiences, and I have met some of the nicest, most interesting people yet!

À Marseille!

An hour and a half TGV ride from Lyon brought me to Marseille and immediately I could tell that I was in a completely new town. As a major Mediterranean port, Marseille is no where near the pristine class of Paris nor the rustic Lyon. Rather, it is bustling, fishy, and breezy - all the qualities that a trading port city should embody. The people are crass but very friendly, helpful, and have a relaxed islander vibe. Strolling though the shops, spending lazy hours at the bars or cafés, and driving mopeds or smart cars through the winding streets are classic Marseillaise activities. 

The living room of Pitchounette and Olive's

View from the window in my room.

I took the metro and bus to my BnB - Pitchounette and Olive's - the cutest place I have ever laid eyes on. The sweetest, most hospitable elderly (but active) woman named Cati owns the place with her boyfriend, Olivier, who is also very warm and kind. Together, they own a building of two parts - one is her and Olivier's home, and the other has been turned into a guest house with the lower level as a common room plus kitchen and the second floor with three bedrooms. Throughout the entire house and rooms, little trinkets, books, pamphlets about Marseille, flowers, seashells, maps, decorations, anything you could think of are scattered, creating an exquisitely creative and warm atmosphere. Cati's outgoing personality just adds to the already adorable BnB, and my petite chambre is the cutest and quite relaxing.

Just a few blocks from the BnB is Marseille's highest point and most well-known landmark - La Notre Dame de la Garde. Olivier recommended for me to visit it as soon as I arrived, so I walked over and found that is very similar to the one in Lyon…in order to reach it, I needed to climb up a trillion steps. 

But I managed to reach the top, and it was certainly worth the climb.

With a golden statue at the top of the highest tower, the massive church overlooks Marseille on all sides and the views are 'incroyable'!

Panoramic view of Marseille's Viex Port

The Mediterranean flora

Oh and the inside of the Notre Dame de La Guard is not too shabby either. It's amazing that those alternating red and white stripes are real marble that was laid out purposefully like that for decoration.





















Day One in Marseille ended with the residents of Pitchounette and Olive's (two girls my age from Canada, Cati, and the Estonian Lorenzo) gathered around the main table in the living room, chatting away (in French!!!) over a bottle of red wine. Without a doubt, the best thing that can happen to anyone traveling is randomly meeting quality people and becoming warm friends. The evening couldn't have ended any better. 

Lyon - Part Deux

Turns out, all of Lyon is situated on a hill - not just Vieux Lyon. The countless stairs shorten but also steepen the walk around it. Though definitely it is a trek to explore the city, the elevation reveals beautiful paysages, which are certainly worth seeing. 

 Le Parc de la Tête d’Or is the ‘Central Park’, as Niels the receptionist described it, of Lyon. Just off the east side of the Rhône River, it is a vast green area with a lake in the center on which people can paddle and row boat. On Sunday, half of the Lyonnaise were out with their families enjoying the nearly-summer day - rollerblading, boating, biking, picnic-ing, reading, playing soccer, relaxing. 



Turns out that in Lyon, Sunday dedicated completely to relaxation and spending time outside with family because everything is closed. Practically all of the stores, restaurants, bars, 
cafés...everything.  

 A typical Sunday in Lyon should be spent as follows: sleep in, go to a farmers market (which are everywhere in the morning!!!) and buy some fresh produce, picnic in a park and spend some quality family time strolling and having fun, go back home and make dinner with the market groceries, and have a peaceful night in with and early bed-time. This is definitely a tradition I am 100% okay with.


After enjoying the park, I walked to the Lyonnais Olympique Stadium - the Lyon soccer team, which had a game that day. Though unfortunately it turns out the game was not at home, it was interesting to see the stadium and to talk to Niels about how big of fans the Lyonnais are. Soccer (real football) is followed and enjoyed by all of Europe, and the major towns are typically very supportive of their home teams. Yet another reason for me to move to Europe... ;)

 Having walked around (and up and down) all of Lyon during the day on Sunday, I met up with two girls who I had met in my Paris hostel, who happened to also be staying in Lyon on the same nights the I was, and who happened to be in a hotel located half a block away from mine. They were from Kansas, my age, taking a semester off from college, and traveling through Europe...so many coincidences! 

We got together and scoured the south area of Lyon for an open restaurant on a Sunday night. Finally, after about half an hour of looking, we found a small mall in which only a select few restaurants were open and everything else was deserted. But we made it work and each enjoyed a glass of wine with our dinners - cheers to friends in foreign places! The mall was situated on the bank of the Saône River, where we sat in the fresh night Lyonnaise air, enjoying the view and company. 

 Though short, my stay in Lyon could not have been better nor more satisfying. The people were all so friendly and when I spoke with them in French they actually responded in French to me and helped me with my grammar and vocabulary, unlike the Parisians who seemed to always be in a rush and immediately switched to English, not giving me a chance to practice. The weather couldn’t have been better - a warm, sunny summer day (I even got a little bit sunburned). The food was remarkable, my strolls were interesting and a good work out, the cute and quaint town was peaceful and relaxing, and the atmosphere was pure joy. I loved every minute of my time here - definitely recommend visiting. Though I was told that during the summer it gets up to 40/45 degrees Celsius, so beware!  

Overall, I thoroughly enjoyed Lyon. The friendly people, welcoming atmosphere, relaxed way of life, stunning views, historic architecture, and delicious food made my visit remarkable. This is certainly a city that I would love to live in the future - to explore more thoroughly and completely indulge in its splendor and magic. 

Bonjour, Lyon!

After Paris, I headed to Lyon via TGV - the high-speed train that is highly accessible and convenient to use for traveling throughout all of France. The two hour ride flew by as I marveled at the beauteous countryside full of vibrant yellows and greens. Though I was hoping to see some sunflower and lavender fields, which struck me on my first TGV journey six years ago with my French class, there were none - I guess summer is the season for that.

Nonetheless, I arrived at the Gare Part-Dieu and made my way to the family-run Hotel Victoria, conveniently located a block away from a main metro/bus/tram/train station, Perrache. 

After spending some time talking to the lovely receptionist, Niels, who turns out is the nephew of the hotel owner and is currently in his last year of law school, I learned about all the must-see places and set off to the Medieval Renaissance district called Vieux Lyon (literally: Old Lyon).  

 I quickly found out that Lyon is a city built on a hill, where the highest point is the La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière - an enormous, picturesque church that boasts the most spectacular view of all of Lyon. 











That is, if you can climb all the way up the infinite amount of stairs to see it… 


Viex Lyon is comprised of a plethora of rustic buildings that remind me of a typical Italian town (at least what I imagine one to be like) -  with thatched roofs, cracking walls, cute stair alleyways, and cobblestone paths. Such a pleasureful and warming view from above. 

 

 I reached the top just a few minutes before the church closed for mass and luckily got to spend a few minutes inside. Unfortunately, picture-taking wasn’t allowed, so I can’t show you how stunning is was, but take my word for it - it’s worth the climb up. Easily the most beautiful interior I have ever seen, the turquoise and gold colors shimmered in the light that seeped through the intricate stained glass windows. The high-rising ceiling bore a classic gothic stone style and was decorated by mosaics in the same color-repertoire as the rest of the decor. Such a breath-taking sight that, when compounded with the view outside, easily places the La Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière as one of my top favorites.

After marveling at the church, I walked back down the mountain to the downtown of View Lyon, where there was a lot of activity on a Saturday night. Unique boutiques - chocolate, honey, silk, interior decor, pirate-themed, jewelry - were all open, beckoning to come inside. But I was on a mission to find a typical Lyonnaise Bouchon restaurant to have a classic Lyonnaise meal. After strolling though the streets, I found a decently-priced (15 euros for a three-course meal) place right on the main street and took my place on the terrace because the temperate weather was perfect in the evening. 

I was eating alone, which as it turns out, is not something that the French are okay with for dinner. Lunch alone in the park is totally acceptable, but not dinner at a restaurant. Oh well! Luckily, I sat down at a table next to a lovely madame and monsieur, who struck up a conversation with me when they heard that I spoke English. Neither of them knew much English at all, so we spoke in French and actually held a two-hour long conversation! I was so happy and proud of myself! Granted, I stumbled a lot, spoke like a two-year-old trying to explain something, and was corrected on my grammar, but it was amazing! They were so kind and interesting, and they really helped me, giving me a boost of confidence when they said that my accent was wonderful and that I just had to practice speaking more and learn more vocabulary. That dinner made my night, if not my whole stay in Lyon. 

 Oh and did I mention that the food was remarkable too? 
The ‘Salade Lyonnaise’ - romaine salad with chunks of bacon and a poached egg. 
Very typical Lyon entrée - warm sausage with boiled potatoes. And chocolate mousse for desert. I was going to choose the dessert cheese platter (another French classic), but there was no more room in my stomach for such a heavy dish. Next time!

Walking back to my hotel on the first night, I was completely contented, and when I saw this view of the church from my window - utterly satisfied and happy. 

Less-Touristy Paris

In about two days, I managed to visit nearly all of the Parisian hit-landmarks. So for my remaining two days, I revisited my favorites and also by walking around the less-touristy areas, saw many more unique areas. Of everything, I have loved just strolling around, marveling at the sights, reading all the signs, listening to the beautiful French language, and dreaming about one day being able to speak fluently while residing in this magical country. 



Of course, I spent more time in the Luxembourg Garden, where I read Pushkin’s Pikovaya Dama; I stumbled upon a Russian book store and found this classic in a dual Russian-French format, where on the left page was the Russian (original) version and on the right side was the translated French version - that way I could practice both languages! I thought that the such a valuable find was worth taking advantage of. 

Also, I spent some time walking around Jardin des Tuileries, where many flowers were in bloom and this interesting monument was extravagantly decorated by vibrant red tulips.  

 Also adjacent to the Louvre is a love-lock bridge, on which I crossed the Seine. There is a lot of love in Paris! 

As per recommendation of my middle school French teacher Madame Grewal’s son, Drew, I went to a jazz bar one night, which turned out to be a wonderful time! Underground, the wine-cellar-type ambiance made it for a unique and fun atmosphere where couples went all-out dancing on the dance floor. Talking to the band, it turned out that they were from the US and absolutely love San Francisco - what a small world!

I also met up with Nathalie, one of Madame Grewal’s teacher-friend’s daughter, who had recently moved to Paris. She and I had lunch at her favorite place - a quaint family-run restaurant, where the salad and the fresh pineapple-mango jus-du-jour were mouth-watering. We walked around the Canal St. Martin and she told me about life in Paris, French politics, and some ideas she had for me on how to live in France! Such a kind mademoiselle who works towards positive social change and is incredibly inspiring, joyful, and supportive of my French dreams. It’s such a pleasure to unexpectedly meet quality people such as her - thank you for everything!

Every building in Paris is picturesque, so spending literally the entire day just wandering around is one of the best activities anyone can do in Paris. 

 It’s even nicer that the city itself is quite clean and the people are put together and pleasant. Granted, that’s in the lower-number more central arrondissements, but just like in any city - you have your classy places and your sketchy, dirty places. But for the most part, Paris is very clean and safe in my opinion. 

And of course, while in Paris, one must sit and
dangle his feet over the Seine River enjoying a
baguette sandwich for lunch.

I also stumbled upon this building - the Russian embassy!
 What a coincidence! 

And lastly, walking around Paris at night, I came across a giant roller-blading party. So fun! If only I had rollerblades to join in. Guess I’ll know for next time!

Overall, Paris was everything I dreamed it would be and more. Incredibly beautiful, historic, captivating, accessible, inspiring, and just purely wonderful. For upbeat young impressionable people, this is a perfect city to live and work in. Though expensive, as most major cities are, every penny spent in Paris is worth it. This visit certainly confirmed my love for France, Paris, the French culture, food, language...everything. 

Until next time, Paris! You’ve been amazing.